Currency

What you're putting away

Starting amount
£
£0£50k
Added every month
£
£0£2k
Interest rate a year
%
0%15%
For how many years
yr
1 yr40 yr
Interest is added

Most savings accounts pay interest once a year; most investments and stocks-and-shares accounts effectively compound as you go. Monthly is the more optimistic of the two.

What you end up with

You put in
Interest
Interest share

Where the money comes from

    Save as PDF opens your browser's print dialog. Choose Save as PDF from the destination list in the browser's own dialog, not the system print dialog's PDF menu, which re-renders the page and drops the links. You get a sheet with your figures and the year-by-year table.

    The currency buttons change the symbol only. Nothing is converted between currencies and no rate changes with them, so £1,000 becomes $1,000, not its exchange value. Everything you type stays in this browser (nothing is sent anywhere) and is still here when you come back. Educational tool, not regulated financial or investment advice.

    Read This First

    The rate is not the lever.

    Everyone shops around for a better percentage. Almost nobody shops around for more years, and the years are where nearly all of the money is.

    £200 a month for 40 years, at 5% ≈ £305,000

    £400 a month for 20 years, at 5% ≈ £164,000

    Identical £96,000 paid in. Identical rate. The only difference is how long it was left alone, and that difference is worth about £141,000.

    The mechanism

    Interest earns interest, and that's the whole trick

    Simple interest pays you on what you put in. Compound interest pays you on what you put in plus everything it has already earned. In year one that difference is invisible, which is why most people give up before it shows. By year twenty-five the interest is quietly out-earning your own deposits, and from that point the account is doing more work than you are. The chart above marks the exact month that happens.

    The cost of waiting

    Ten years you cannot buy back later

    Put £250 a month away from 25 to 65 at 5% and you finish near £381,000. Start the same £250 at 35 instead and you finish near £208,000. The ten years you skipped only cost you £30,000 of actual deposits, but they cost roughly £173,000 of the result. You cannot make that up by paying in harder afterwards, only by starting.

    The fine print

    What this model quietly assumes

    A steady rate every single year, no missed months, no fees, no tax, and no inflation. Real life gives you none of that. Investment returns arrive in a jagged line, not a smooth curve, and £305,000 in forty years will not buy what £305,000 buys today. Treat the number as a direction of travel, not a promise, and check whether an ISA keeps the tax off it.

    The other direction

    The same curve is what makes a card expensive

    Flip the tool to working against you. A £3,200 balance at 24.9% APR, paying only the minimum, takes the better part of thirty years to clear, because the minimum shrinks as the balance shrinks and keeps the debt alive. It is not that you borrowed too much. It is that compounding is patient, and a minimum payment is designed to let it be.

    What to actually do with this

    • Clear the expensive debt first. A card at 24.9% is a guaranteed 24.9% loss every year you carry it. No savings account and no realistic investment beats that, so paying it down is the highest-return thing available to you.

    • Pay a fixed amount, not the minimum. Switch the tool to a fixed payment and hold it steady as the balance drops. That single change is usually the difference between three years and thirty.

    • Start the savings side small, but start it. £25 a month from today beats £250 a month from a someday that keeps moving. The years are the part you can never buy back.

    • Automate it on payday. Compounding only rewards the months you actually paid in. A standing order the day after you're paid removes the decision, and the decision is what people miss.

    Next Step

    Paying the expensive kind of compound interest?

    A 1:1 session is an hour on your actual report and your actual balances, what's costing you most, in what order to clear it, and what it takes to get approved for a rate that isn't working against you.

    Book a 1:1 Session